Cancer-Causing Chemicals in Your Cosmetics!

 p-Phenylenediamine (PPD)

Woman and men have been using various substances and chemicals to change the colour and look of their hair since at least Roman times. Some of the materials used over time include such things as leeks, charred eggs, goat’s fat, ashes, walnut shells, black sulphur, alum, honey, henna, indigo, oak galls, alum, sugar, iron sulphate, copper sulphate, antimony and buckthorn.*




Today hair dyes vary greatly in their chemical make-up depending partly on their classification. Temporary dyes cover the surface of the hair but do not penetrate into the hair shaft. Semi-permanent dyes do penetrate into the hair shaft while permanent dyes cause lasting chemical changes in the hair shaft creating colour changes that last until the hair is replaced by new growth.


Introduced to the world in the 1880’s, one of the first synthetic dyes used for colouring hair is p-phenylenediamine or PPD. PPD is used mainly in permanent dyes. This derivative of petroleum, also used to dye textiles, leather and fur, is found in over 600 hair dye products, making it by far the most common chemical used in products applied directly to the hair as a colouring agent and also indirectly to the scalp. PPD was banned in France and Germany from 1906 until the 1990s, when it was again allowed for use in member states of the European Union. It was named contact allergen of the year in 2006 by Medscape.*


Although there appears to be limited evidence of the carcinogenicity of PPD, at least one well-designed study with detailed exposure assessment showed a connection between hair dyes containing PPD and non-Hodgkin’s lymphoma, multiple myeloma, acute leukaemia, and bladder cancer.*
The International Agency for Research on Cancer (IARC ) places p-phenylenediamine in Group 3, where the evidence of carcinogenicity is inadequate in humans, but sufficient in experimental animals.


Scorecard, a resource for information about pollution problems and toxic chemicals, lists p-phenylenediamine as a suspected cardiovascular, liver, kidney, respiratory, immuno and neurotoxicant. It is also listed as a skin or sense organ toxicant.*^

Apart from the potential cancer risk, possibly the biggest concerns with PPD are sensitisation and the damage this chemical can do to your skin and eyes. The mildest reaction is reddening of the skin and mild itching, but it can also cause severe irritation, skin scarring, burns to the skin and eyes and even eye damage. PPD is easily absorbed through the skin on the scalp and the hands. The National Institute for Occupational Safety and Health (NIOSH) stated that skin contact with PPD should be prevented in order to avoid allergic reactions associated with it. These allergic reactions can be severe, may require hospitalization and in rare cases lead to death. NIOSH cited irritation of the pharynx and larynx, bronchial asthma, sensitisation and dermatitis as possible effects. The Food and Drug Administration (FDA) has not approved its use for direct skin application.*


Scientists have also discovered a link between rheumatoid arthritis and the use of permanent hair dye. People who colour their hair for 20 years or more double their risk of developing this debilitating autoimmune disease.*

Be aware that ‘black henna’ when used in temporary tattoos contains PPD. Application to the skin can cause sensitisation, increasing the likelihood of a severe reaction to hair dyes containing PPD sometime in the future. ‘Black henna’ can also refer to indigo in India and Middle Eastern countries.*


Although PPD is the most prevalent chemical used in hair dyes, it is not the only one of concern. Other chemical ingredients to be wary of are resorcinol, hydroquinone, p-aminophenol, lead acetate, 1-naphthol, hydrogen peroxide and ammonium persulphate. Some of these chemicals are recognised or suspected carcinogens. In 2007 the European Union banned 22 chemicals used in hair dyes, adding to a list of 50 other banned hair dye ingredients.*


"Many hair dye products contain at best risky chemical cocktails and people should always read the labels and carefully scrutinise the ingredients."


        If you do have to colour your hair the best advice is to always do a patch test to make sure the product does not cause any adverse reactions. Minimise contact with the skin, wear gloves and always closely follow the directions. The safer option is to use pure henna, indigo or other plant dyes that have been certified by an independent laboratory to be free of synthetic chemical additives and adulterants. Remember also, that the words ‘natural’ and ‘organic’ have no regulatory meaning and may appear on the labels of products laden with potentially harmful synthetic chemicals.

*References provided on request to the author.
^For definitions of each type of toxicity see the glossary of The Chemical Maze Shopping Companion book or iPhone app. See www.chemicalmaze.com

Ref:www.koraorganics.com